Jewel of the coast

Photo: Gareth Jones

Blackpool Tower and Tower Eye...

I'M beginning to think we might have overlooked Blackpool Tower.

Not literally of course; that would require extraordinary ability or extreme short-sightedness. But as a tourist attraction it's never been high on our family list.

Like many visitors we visit Blackpool for the thrills of the Pleasure Beach or the twinkly delight of the illuminations.

The situation, I'm pleased to report, has now been corrected.

After a day at the "tower" - a collective name for the tower itself and the vast building at its base - with my family I can say I've scaled its dizzy heights and descended to its very depths - and seen everything in between.

There's nowhere quite like Blackpool - and definitely nowhere like Blackpool Tower.

It could be the location, but there's an air both of Victorian charm and Victorian ambition. Though never the tallest tower in the world it was one of the greatest of late Victoriana, now it's only the 120th-highest tower on the planet, which still isn't bad.

Inside, the stunning ballroom draws tourists from around the world and the circus delivers traditional family entertainment by the tower load.

The complex has been sprinkled in recent years with a little Merlin Magic - Merlin Entertainments being the owner of this and many entertainment attractions, from Alton Towers and Thorpe Park to the Sealife centres and Legoland.

The tower complex now features the Blackpool Tower Dungeon and has re-incarnated the ride to the top as the "Blackpool Tower Eye".

Some might find their branded themes cheesy, but the company has undeniably breathed new life into the attraction and drawn in a new generation of visitors.

Within the first days of opening as a rival to the Eiffel Tower in 1894 , 3,000 eager Victorians clamoured to pay sixpence to get the lift to the top. Over 120 years later the ritual continues, though it now costs a lot more than sixpence...

As of earlier this year, new lift ropes mean you can head for the top in 50mph winds - for which, many thanks (previously the lifts didn't work if gusts topped 40mph). The top platform now also has a glass "SkyWalk" which lets you walk on a glass sheet that is the only thing between you and the ground, 500ft below.

If you're not claustrophic in lifts (I am) and you don't have vertigo (I do), the lift is an essential part of the experience. In the name of journalism I overcame both fears and to be honest yes, it was worth the mind-numbing anxiety for the spectacular views of the coastline. It's also the best place to view the comedy carpet on the prom.

Prior to getting in the lift you're treated to the 4D cinema experience, which involves 3D glasses and (little) blasts of air and water and Kylie Monogue's All the Lovers for some reason. You can also immerse yourself in the history of the tower through nostalgic film clips, memorabilia and old newspaper cuttings.

But DO visit the ballroom. Best known as the location for the BBC's Strictly Come Dancing, it's a wonderland of crystal chandeliers, stunning architecture, feathers, sequins and world-famous Wurlitzers - one of which has been in use since 1935.

Spectators can sip a drink in the bar, but to truly soak up the ambience you need to foxtrot and/or tango your way to the edge of the dancefloor for... a dance? Heck no! For afternoon tea, obviously. Delicious sandwiches - some of the best on the afternoon tea scene, and I've had a lot - dainty cakes, scones and trifles can be savoured in the unrivalled elegance of this amazing venue, leaving the more sure-footed to trip the light fantastic- or if not so sure-footed, perhaps just to trip.

Another feather in the tower's Kiss-Me-Quick cap is that it really does cater for all ages.

Youngsters can burn off a bit of energy in Jungle Jim's play area, which offers hourly sessions in its Lost City (losing them on purpose isn't considered good etiquette, by the way).

The Blackpool Tower Dungeon isn't really my cup of tea but I'm game for most things - though perhaps not the ritual humiliation of accidentally revealing I'm from Yorkshire while in a Lancashire mock-up of the War of the Roses.

The acting is good and the sets and special effects make it as oppressive, gross and gory. I was scared.

This definitely isn't for children though: one family brought their young daughter and the poor kid was petrified and crying to leave within minutes. My own eight year old headed for the beach instead.

The experience, for those who stay, ends with Drop Dead, a descent ride that has an intriguing twist but is a little underwhelming.

The complex has also just added a Dungeon Escape Room attraction, if you like that sort of thing.

I can take or leave circuses, but if I had a top hat I'd take it off to the guys involved in the Tower Circus.

It's at the bottom of the landmark - meaning the tower is literall the tallest Big Top around. Resident clowns Mooky and Mr Boo - not a curly wig or water-squirt flower in sight - use their clever comedic skills to string the two-hour show together.

There are truly incredible stunts, acrobatics and comedy capers, but what makes this circus special is its ornate Victorian setting.

Blackpool is also the only circus left in the world offering a water feature finale, so be prepared for the ring filling up with over 42,000 gallons of water for said spectacle.

After the tower? No trip to Blackpool is complete without fish and chips, and where better than Harry Ramsden's, which has, well, changed quite a lot.

The restaurant - next door to the tower - is the company's northern flagship, recently subject to a £2 million makeover complete with porthole-style dining booths, stylish themed decor, a rotisserie, grill and gin and craft beer bar.

Ramsden's famous chippie tea now sits along ribs, burgers, pies, puddings and various internationally-inspired dishes.

My choice of battered cod was lovely, and the beef and mushroom pie, glazed chicken skewers and macaroni cheese bite recipients had no complaints either.

The restaurant is perfect for children, even if only for the impressive selection of milkshakes - and a great place to chill out after scaling the tower.

* Go to www.theblackpooltower.com/tickets: you can save 50 per cent or more on multi-attraction ticket prices.

Afternoon tea for two at the tower ballroom starts at £50 and can be booked online.